Valentino: The Last Emperor (2008)

Valentino Garavani, a giant in the Italian fashion scene, looms larger than life in this wonderful documentary by Matt Tyrnauer, a writer for Vanity Fair magazine. Valentino, as he was known professionally, rose above the rest of his competition because of his sheer determination to succeed, his sense of beauty and most of all because of his association with Giancarlo Giametti, his business and sentimental partner. As with other fashion designers, Valentino shows qualities of being a demanding critic of his own work. He is seldom happy with the work he is preparing for the fashion shows where the clothes will be presented to the public and buyers. At the same time, another side of the man, gives us a sense of how egotistical and proud he can be. It is something that probably goes with the territory in which this man excelled throughout his creative years.Valentino lived the high style associated to his work and the people he catered to. A villa in Rome, a castle in France, yachting in a magnificent vessel, skiing in Gstaad, Switzerland. Decadence is seen with the high fashion man catering to his five pug dogs, spoiling them rotten, and even taking them on private planes. Valentino lived a sort of fairy tale life surrounded by the same society people that saw in his clothes a reflection of themselves.Unfortunately, there was a reality. Fashion is a big business, run by people that have no concept of what creative people are trying to do. The association with a business man, Matteo Marzotto, something that begins on a friendly level, turns sour toward the end of Valentino's career. The firm which was his pride and joy suffers greatly as the genius that created the label steps down.In spite of being seventy five at the time of his leaving his house of haute couture, Valentino shows a lust for life unequaled by his peers. The final party in Rome was one of those amazing displays of good taste, and recognition of Valentino's work. A weepy man accepts his being given France's top honor, the Legion of Honor, where he publicly tells of his gratitude to Mr. Giammetti, something one never heard throughout the documentary. The director, Matt Tyrnauer captures the essence of the man who rule a world most of us do not even get a chance to see except in films like this, or in glossy magazines.

A fascinating look behind the scenes at the man who always dreamed of beautiful things.The peek into the emotions and thoughts of Valentino was a rare treasure. Usually we just see the finished product, not the process.One thing that is clear in the process is the driven nature of Valentino. He is always dressed and acts as if he is on display. He cannot relax for a moment. He once comments he worked 40 hours straight. As someone who worked 23 hours straight once, I applaud that. But one has to think that a multimillionaire can relax sometime. Not Valentino.He may not have been happy giving permission to enter his world, but we are richer for it.You certainly don't have to be gay to work in this industry, but it sure helps as you stare at breasts all day.

A leisurely style and a clear view of glorious gorgeous clothes and the true Dolce Vita lifestyle are well on show here is this definite and definitive documentary about legendary haute couturier Valentino. In an era of documentaries about anyone, the subject matter here is a standout because of the luxury fashion topic, the Italian man his Mediterranean life and lifestyle and of course incredible clothes. However, again, my serious complaint is about the terrible hand held photography... sloppy camera handling and out of focus moments. A cameraman who behaves like a deranged one legged stalker hopping about, behind shoulders, photographing blank backs and lurching around in order to capture a group working on a model as she dresses basically gets in the way of his own film. GET A TRIPOD! Apart from the wobble stalker cam, we are treated to sensational fashion show runs in awesome settings with breathtaking clothes and settings that add to the emotion. Valentino's relationship with partner Ginacarlo is lovingly but slightly shown, and has special poignancy in scrapbook photos and TV edits. Overall it is a gorgeous film, better than The September Issue and even has some of the same fringe dwellers. The realization that now in the new century his designs and life is just another corporate transfer for heartless profit is a well exposed moment. Beautiful is a word used a lot, and so suits this film. Bummer about the lousy camera-work.

This documentary by 'Vanity Fair' correspondent Matt Tyrnauer tells two stories. First it depicts the extraordinarily long-lived life/business partnership of Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giametti. Second it shows the ravages of a changing world in which haute couture is falling into the hand of financiers and the exploiters of brand names. In the days of Fellini's 'La Dolce Vita', Valentino met Giancarlo in Rome on the Via Veneto--they differ about at which café it was--and the friendship, love affair, and business partnership that resulted led to the 45-year reign of the house of Valentino. During the year filmmaker Tyrnauer followed the partners, Valentino is both spectacularly celebrated--and chooses to resign. Bought by investors, his name now belongs to others. It is likely that the fabulous gowns all sewn by hand and covered with embroidery and sequins by a team of industrious and skillful women in Milan will no longer be made. And the whole fashion industry is changing from the top down. Compared to where it was in the grand old days of the Fifties, it now is far more huge and enormously more profitable. But the fabulous haute couture design paraded on runways, fashion's creative center, is fading in scale and importance, because the money isn't there to pay for it. Couture is bleeding away its exquisite heart to the pursuit of "market share" and money.In the days of his rise Valentino provided a whole wardrobe to Jacqueline Kennedy. And there were many others just as elegant and beautiful. His stated principle is that he gives women what they want and what they want is beauty. His style as a designer is supremely beautiful, accessible, classic--a little conventional (insofar as such craft and expense can be thought conventional). He awes and delights; he does not shock. Everything is sewn by hand. In the workshop where the women make his gowns, there was once a sewing machine, but nobody ever used it. The movie stars and the titled aristocrats still turn out for the fashion do's, but the fashions themselves, the most exquisite and luxurious of them, are facing gradual extinction.Matt Tyrnauer made this film in 2007; his timing was good to tell his two stories, the human one and the financial one. (The financial one undercuts and spoils the aesthetic one, but no matter; that is the subliminal message.) He captured Valentino in Rome and Paris where he has fabulous houses, in his private plane where his five pugs take up a double leather-cushioned seat, and Gstaad where (though 75) he skies downhill at breakneck speed, and on his large and streamlined yacht. We see Valentino's marvelous hand as he sketches instantly perfect designs on paper. We see the arguments over ruffles and sequins and the head seamstress berating her underlings for their incompetence when a row of stitches must be done all over. The film is not so long on detail and history but it is strong on atmosphere. And it captures the dressed-to-the-nines Italian elegance of the perfectly suited Giancarlo and Valentino and the grandeur of the runways (none grander than these) and the tension and expletives and superlatives of the fitting room.More important, Tyrnauer captured the ceremony in Paris where Valentino, never keen to admit debts to others, holds back sobs as he acknowledges, when made a Chevalier of the Légion d'Honneur, that he would never have won this medal nor had this glittering career without Giammetti forever at his side. The camera swerves breathlessly back and forth between the two men, collecting Valentino's gasps and Giancarlo's elegantly modest smile and nod of thanks. It is a great moment in the histories of fashion and of gay partnerships.Later, in Rome, the fashion house spends 200,000 euros on a fabulously beautiful and elegant celebration of the designer's career. At this point for several years interest in company has been bought, and there is a new business partner, Matteo Marzotto. Then a financial investor has gotten hold of a controlling interest, and Valentino's resignation decision came two months after the celebration. He was never any good at business. A man with a sense of humor, he confesses in public that he was always hopeless at everything else besides designing clothes.Valentino and Giancarlo are rarely apart, day and night. Giametti somewhat extravagantly declares that in 45 years he has only been away from Velentino for two months total. Tyrnauer has a moving target to deal with, shifting between places and from Italian to English to French in a moment. They are always on the move. Now and then the camera catches a choice moment of bickering. Velentino seems to object to pretty much anything he hasn't thought of himself, including a replaced ruffle, a desert background for a fashion show, a location for the Rome celebration, a choice of color. If it wasn't his idea, it sucks. He's often smiling, but his mouth is in a perpetual prune-y pout. Valentino thinks of himself as delivering decisions to Giancarlo, and often uses French to do so, though traded gibes about double chins or pot bellies or too dark a tan are tossed off in Italian. And there is much to amuse and to touch here. Or to gasp at: the Rome celebration is as breathtakingly gorgeous as any conspicuous display could ever be. Imagine having your life's work celebrated with fireworks over the Colosseum! In another way Tyrnauer's timing wasn't so good, however. After 'Unzipped' (1995), 'Project Runway' (2005 following), two searching films about the career and life of Yves Saint Laurent (2002), 'The Devil Wears Prada' (2006), and the recent down-market but detailed chronicle of a failed fashion house launch, 'Eleven Minutes'(2008), movie-goers know a good deal about the haute couture story, so many elements and scenes of 'Valentino' are 'vieux jeux' by now, even though those of us who are fascinated by wearable art and the world of chicness will have to see it anyway.